120 (part 2)

For those who prefer more simplistic ideas based upon pop culture, here's a truncated update:

What we have here is a Star Wars conflict.

The Egyptian people, exercising newly gained political influence, voice, and power, are acting as Queen Amidala.

Having recently (January Revolution) given a vote of "No Confidence" in the previous leader, they inadvertently helped pave the way for the Empire to take over.  (And we all know how that went.)

But, to their credit, the people were wise to the actions of the Empire, and seem to have acted before they were able to exert such a stronghold over the country.

(Good for Queen Amidala, but no Empire means no Jedi's, so I'm a little disappointed on that front.)

So, we wait and watch to see who wrestles control - the Empire (SCAF and military) or rebels (Egyptian people via popular vote.)

120 (weeks in Cairo)

Hi all,

It's time to bring back my blog updates.

First off, if you read no further, please know that I am safe and well.

Times once again are becoming tense in Egypt. The military refuses to understand or meet the wishes of the people. They have been the school yard bully for so long, they don't know any other way to act. It's unfortunate, because their main method of communication is through violence, and some of that violence comes in the forms of tear gas cannisters (which are now reportedly stronger than during the Revolution, and are causing suffocation and death) which have "Made in the U.S." printed on the sides.

Thus, while the conflict is internal, I occassionally hear some anti-U.S. sentiment.

But, the official U.S. policy seems to be fairly positive. It appears we have backed off of our partnership with the military here and are waiting for a fair election process to occur; those elections should enable communication with the freely elected leaders of Egypt. Those elections are supposed to occur Monday. We'll see.

The military here is doing (I believe) what it can to delay elections. The longer there are no elected leaders, the longer the military stays as the "only power in town" and they can continue to manipulate, steal, intimidate, and be in control.

While all of this is happening, my employer is very contientious and supportive. Many schools are going full on. We are dismissing early to increase the chances we are home safe before any potential outbreaks occur. They have been implementing as needs arise more and more systems for communication and safety. They are trying to respond as best they can to situations that cannot be predicted, and I appreciate the efforts being made.

We are also continuing to operate with a focus on our students. Systems are in place for online communication and delivery of course content. As long as the internet continues to work, we at least have a secondary means to deliver the content of our courses, and students can still have some guided learning. (I say as long as because even though the United Nations has now deemed internet a "basic human right" and therefore not something to be cut off at a nations whim, as Egypt did last January, I anticipate the military here will not hesitate to do so again if they feel it's in their best interest.)

For the time being, the conflict is internal, and the violence isolated to a very focused area around Tahrir Square in downtown Cairo. While there are thieves who are taking advantage of a lack of police presence in the greater Cairo area, the general day to day living situation is still quite calm and good for me.

Say a prayer for the Egyptian people that they can continue in their efforts to gain what everybody wants: a better life with a governmental system that adheres to principles of and does what it can to ensure basic human rights are provided to all.

Scott

76

Feb 4, 2011

I have been living in Cairo for a year and a half teaching high school, and over that time I’ve come to know, love, and appreciate the people of Egypt, the city of Cairo, and the students and families I work with on a daily basis.

Life is generally very calm and easy. With regularity, we will take walks around the city, visit the markets like the ancient suq Al Khan al Khalili, catch a falucca (sailboat) ride on the Nile River, and enjoy the people and the city without fear. The Egyptian people are generally friendly and helpful; life is good.

Then on Wednesday, Feb.2, I found myself in a living room with 15 expat (foreigners living in Egypt) teachers from the school I where I work. After watching what had become daily conflicts in Tahrir Square, we were discussing what to do.

Some wanted to go to the beach, to Ain Sokhna, where they could wait out the storm in safety and comfort - away from the sound of gunfire and from the fear of danger. Others felt like staying in Maadi, the quiet little suburb south of the center of Cairo where we live; still others even wanted to go to Tahrir Square to join in the protests.

We had been seeing the same reports on the news, watching CNN, BBC, Al Jazeera, and many people’s televisions ran day and night. I was sleeping in front of mine, waiting for every new bit of news about the struggles ongoing in this once peaceful country. With no telephones, no internet, no connections to outside world, we were isolated and alone. Nightly, we heard gunfire. Tanks appeared on the streets. The prisons were reportedly emptied, police had disappeared, images of other war torn third world countries started to enter my mind.

I was thinking of leaving.

Our school – all schools for that matter – had been closed temporarily, with no definite opening date set. There were curfews in place daily, ending around 8 or 9 a.m. and starting anywhere from 2-5 p.m. Grocery prices were rising, businesses were closed, there was no work. Things were not normal.

The protests had continued to escalate, and I had many reports from my Egyptian friends who were protesting. They were expressing their voice and gaining momentum. At each turn, the protesters were emboldened. They were finding comfort and excitement in exercising a right to speak that for almost 30 years had been silenced. I was hearing on the news and reading in the newspapers that the protesters in Tahrir Square were beginning to feel that the momentum was theirs, that they were going to get what they wanted, and that victory was nearly in their grasp. They would not settle for anything less than victory.

The police force was reportedly mounting their own pro-Mubarek campaign. This same police force that for almost 30 years had acted under “emergency laws” which allowed them to arrest, detain, and injure anybody for any reason was promising to take to the streets to quell the protests. These forces, along with other Egyptians who favored Mubarek – those who cited him as the leader who brought progress to Egypt; the man who had raised Egypt to a leading country in the region, one who was at peace with the world; one who had nearly abolished crime in the country; who had brought change and progress to their nation. For these and other reasons they were now promising to counter protest.

Mubarek, to his supporters, seemed to be answering the protester’s requests; he agreed to step down, to change some laws according to their requests, to move on. To the protesters, he seemed to be using the same manipulative tactics they accused him of using for years, and appeared to be buying time to keep Egypt under his thumb.

I know people on both sides of the struggle, and they are all fairly resolute in their beliefs.

All around us, the tension was rising.

Later on Feb. 2, things started to get worse.

Phones started to ring, the images started to appear on TV, tickers started reporting violence, conflict, even death. Pro-Mubarek supporters were pinned in the square, not allowed to leave. All through the night, they were bombarded from all sides by rocks, screams, attacks.

Through it all, the United States was walking a fine line, seeking to keep peace in this “pivotal country” in the Middle East. Policies and statements make financial sense; they make political sense; rationally one can find a lot of reasons for why our leaders were saying what they were saying: it’s in our interest to keep a friend in Egypt. But the protesters were starting to recoil at any foreign support of a government that they hated. “Any friend of my enemy is also my enemy.”

Despite the best of intentions, a line was being drawn in the sand, and I began to understand many Egyptian people I worked with, many protesters I understood and respected, people who were asking for a true democracy, were seeing me on the other side.

People were asking me the impossible question: “What do you think of your country’s involvement?” To answer it in any way would lead to a negative conversation. If I support my country, in many Egyptians eyes I was supporting Mubarek, and keeping them silent. If I didn’t support my country, I would be speaking ill of a nation I love, and this is not good form for any good citizen abroad. Life got hard.

My bags were packed. The U.S. ordered all Diplomatic Passport holders to evacuate, and recommended all U.S. citizens leave. There were flights waiting for us at the airport. Morning news reports showed Mubarek had not agreed to leave office. The death counts were being reported and the violence recapped from the night before.

So in the early morning hours of Feb. 3 I made my way to the airport, and left the country for Europe.

73

Sorry all, I know it's been too long. Thanks to the many like Mike Nebel, who have politely reminded me of my blog silence.

As time wears on, I become more buried in the day to day life, and as things seem fairly routine, it feels like there is less "important" material to post on the blog. I suppose it's a bit of a natural occurance, but I will try to step back more often and remind myself of the really important events I am living, seeing and learning from.

I am continuing my education at AUC, studying International and Comparative Education. My hopes are to complete the degree in 5 semesters.

This would either leave me in Egypt, or in another country where the degree of study could transfer, for another 2 years from this point. I have already decided and signed a contract to stay in Egypt next year.

More recently, I just spent the last two weeks trekking all over Egypt. I was blessed to have visitors from the U.S. for Christmas, and we really got around the country and I saw tons of things I have never before seen. (I've been saving the time for when I had guests, so it would be unique and interesting for all at the same time.) It was great to spend some time with friends and family over here, although it was hard to be away from home for Christmas for the first time ever in my life.

It was a very interesting two weeks, but also a little scary. I was in Abu Simbel the day of the tour bus crash that resulted in American deaths.

Later, that same week, I was in Alexandria on the same day of the Coptic Church bombing. Needless to say, my guests were a little nervous about their safety here, as was I.

All-in-all, I have been from the extreme south of Egypt to the northern coast, and have spent some time on the Sinai peninsula, in Dahab. Along the way, I was able to see and learn a lot more about the history of Egypt, as well as observe the modern culture of the people living in different areas currently.

There is a lot to be seen.

But now things are getting back to normal. While Egypt is a very safe country, and feels extra safe for me as an expat, there is a little strife and struggle that is under the surface of what I "see" on a daily basis. Poverty is a huge problem, as is securing good employment and earning a livable wage for most of the people. Religious conflicts occur, despite the fact that the government is on the surface supporting other faiths than Islam. I will choose not to comment on the political situation here at this time, as you can read plenty about in any local or world newspapers.

Tomorrow, we return to work after a 2 1/2 week winter break. At least my school appears to be showing respect and tolerance of other religious holidays, combining the Roman Catholic Christmas and the Coptic Christmas into an extended winter break. There are some examples of good people who express religious understanding and tolerance around, and my school seems to employ many of them.

If work was uncomfortable in any way, I might be looking to leave Egypt in a hurry. But my experience at Hayah and in other places reminds me that as there are a few people around that make life uncomfortable, the majority of the people you meet in this world are really good and well meaning individuals. I feel I work with and know many more religious, devout, and good people than I do the other type, and because of that feel welcome and respected here.

I hope continually that Egypt can grow into a country that everyone can be proud of again.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all!