7

Sept. 20.

I just spent one week in Jordan with two of my new teacher friends – Mary and Kendra.

In all, we spent 2 nights in Amman. 1night in Marriot Dead Sea. 2 Nights Dana. 2 nights Petra.

This blog is from 9/20/09 – before Petra. Petra will get it’s own post.

We woke up early and left Dana in route to Shoubak Castle. The morning started off slowly, with clouds and cool temperatures. I was disappointed because the city of Dana is perched on a precipice in an large canyon, with beautiful rock formations and colors everywhere. It looks a little like a miniature Grand Canyon, but the cost to stay there was only 7 Jordanian Dinar per night, or about 10 USD. The previous day, it was sunny early, and the morning rays lit up the canyon. On that day, I had forgotten my camera, as luck would have it. So I had hopes to shoot the scenery this morning. Due to the overcast and cloudy sky, It didn’t work out that way, and we left for Shoubak Castle.

We spent two hours climbing around the ruins of the castle, but I was really waiting for our exit. Mary had been reading the guidebook, and very early in our explorations she said, “this staircase leads to a secret crusader staircase exiting the castle” in a non-chalant manner. My curiosity was peaked! So after two hours of fun hiking around up on top of the castle, we decided to go to the staircase.

I had only my tiny Vodaphone to use for a flashlight, so early on it was a little unnerving. (I for the first time considered using the British inspired and very popular around the world word for flashlight – torch – but still couldn’t bring myself to do it.) Within 30 steps from the entrance, I could barely see 5 feet from the flashlight to the ground, and there were three of us. We travelled steeply down and slowly some stairs. Luckily it was mostly dust from the top of the stairs in the air that was obscuring the light. After another 5 minutes or so, visibility cleared up and things got better. But the way was completely dark and dangerous, as the dust on the stone steps continued to increase making the way very slippery. The rock floor steps were cut from sandstone or limestone, so even the thinnest layer of dust became very slippery.

We descended more and more, and went well past the “365 steps” that we were told were in the descent. I’m sure they picked the number symbolically, and not practically. I was trying to count to test their accuracy in the count, but quit after about 20, as there were many more half steps, and partial steps, and gaps of slant with not steps…at any rate I’d guesstimate the total count at well over 600.

We continued the descent, and were travelling along a sedimentary rock line, going right along with the fault in the rock wall. I’m pretty sure the cave must have been naturally formed along this line, and the crusaders entered later and carved small steps in the bottom of the tunnel.

After 45 minutes of progressively steeper slopes, dustier steps, and in absolute darkness, we finally saw a light at the end of the tunnel. There were small pieces of rebar acting as a ladder up a 15 foot crusader manhole. UP. We were under the ground in the bottom of a valley. Climbed up the ladder and emerged dusty, tired, but mostly relieved that we actually made it. In the U.S., this cave would have either been closed totally to tourists, or would have had a OSHA approved staircase or tram inside.

In total, we descended 205 meters by the guide at the top’s measurement, but it definitely felt like more.

Next Stop: Petra.

6

We had a long weekend, so six of the teachers from Hayah Academy, myself included, traveled to Sharm El Sheikh to go scuba diving.

You can quickly find it on a map, but it's on the southern tip of the Sinai peninsula, and the diving is pretty good there.

I've included some photos in the top gallery on the left.

We stayed in the "Dive Inn" and for $17 per person per night, it was a steal. I might start going there to hang out for kicks. (The bus ticket each way was $15, and it's 8 hours away.) So, for $65 or so (plus incidentals), I can stay at an incredibly nice hotel near the Red Sea, and lounge at the pool - one of the best relaxing pools I've ever been around. It was not what I'd call swanky or anything, but it was the most laid back, easy going environment. Add 90-100 degree pure sunny days, and the pool was refreshing and warm.

I forgot to add their complementary breakfast is an all you can eat buffet. I ate 3 omelettes, 3 crepes, 2 yogurts, fruit and veggies, many slices of bread with jam, coffee, tea, and more...I think I might have eaten $17 worth of food at any rate. Diving leaves one with a pretty strong appetite.

It was a much needed break from the routines of Maadi.

As I've had many times before in Egypt, I had a brief feeling of guilt. Growing up in Nebraska, I always figured life was supposed to be hard work. I still fell the same way, but I live in a pretty cool place.

Sorry it's a short blog. Since school hasn't started still, so I hate to say there's not much to report.

And anything else I could include would pale in comparison to the trip to Sharm.

I missed the Pius Invite cross country meet today. This only means the Waverly Invite is next week. I'm hoping everybody runs well.

Keep in touch,

Scott

4

I don’t know if it’s truly fear, or a case of an overcautious state, or something else, but Egypt is an interesting place at the moment.

We were scheduled to start school on Sunday, August 30th. But President Mubarak, not the secretary of education but the president of the country, suspended the opening of all Egyptian schools until after Ramadan.

The most common reason we were given: swine flu.

So, if it’s fear of a pandemic, it’s too bad. Earlier this year, all pigs were ordered to be slaughtered, despite the fact that most experts contend that pigs don’t actually carry swine flu.

Now, schools are postponed almost a month – not being allowed to start until after Ramadan. I guess swine flu is less contagious then.

Our first day is now Saturday, September 26th.

Now, I can see if swine flu catches hold Egypt will have a mess. I would not think there’s as strong an ability to respond and control a massive outbreak of the flu – there would likely be a pandemic to deal with. So I’m cautious in being critical of any decision. They must know what they are doing.

But all the same it’s disappointing. There is a huge need for education here, not just at Hayah, but at all the public schools as well. To be delayed another month in beginning the year is disappointing. I am ready to get going, and it’s unfortunate that we are in this position.

So, I find myself continuing to find ways to occupy my days. Sure, we go to school and do staff training day after day, but it’s not teaching. And it’s Ramadan, so we go home at 1:30 every day. This leaves me with 10 hours or more each day with slack time, and I’m definitely not used to it.

And I’m reminded that while small amounts of fear can be helpful and good, when one has too much of it it can be crippling.

So our students got an extra 3 weeks of leisure. We’ll make up about 5 days by doing some 6 day weeks, but that’s it.

Teachers, of course, don’t get extra time off. In the end we’ll work more days. And, the last 5 were (and next 10 appear to be) excruciating. I may delete this post later, if I hear anyone here is following it, but as of yet I think I’m safe. I’m keeping a very positive working face here – I have to I’m new – but you are hearing the truth. It’s awful. For instance, yesterday, we spent the entire day playing games – scavenger hunt to learn the campus, and then games like tag in the gym and other elementary school PE activity games. Sure, I know some of the staff a little better, but it was 5 hours of PE. AND THAT WAS IT. I didn’t set foot in the classroom, didn’t spend a minute discussing vision or planning, not one academic thought was required of me the entire day. I’m not saying I wasn’t thinking, but I could have been absent and nothing would have been lost; rather much could have been gained. It was rough and depressing to me as a professional.

I know it’s not the norm – everyone is scrambling to figure out how to absorb the massive blow. But oh well, it is what it is. Looking at the rest of the group yesterday, I was actually at least thankful that I like to play stupid games like tag. Seeing a bunch of Ramadan starved (fasting) and sleep deprived women in Hijabs trying to engage in physical activity was a bit surreal, and at least I have that memory going for me as well. I can’t imagine what they are writing in their blogs this week!

To boot, I don’t have ready access to internet yet. I’m oh so close at my apartment, and school is completely down – has been for over a week. This makes training even more difficult for the administration and planning a bit tougher for teachers.

So, I guess I’m continually reminded of one undeniable fact. While it is very interesting here, it’s definitely third world. I especially am moved to see how easily people take bad news – I can truly see it’s more the norm than not. Things aren’t supposed to happen easily; they just don’t.

I used to think it funny that everyone said “En Shallah” all the time. “God willing.” Then, I got a little upset about it. I’d say, see you at our 10:00 meeting, and people would reply, “En Shallah.” I’d say please be here to fix my toilet tomorrow at 10, and the reply, “En Shallah.” I tried to explain NO EN SHALLAH – be here at 10. But now I see I will not win this battle. Life kinda happens like this.

So, that’s all for now. I’ll hope to report better or more interesting news next week – En Shallah.

Scott